Epoxy resin is a versatile, two-part synthetic polymer system consisting of an Epoxy Resin (Part A) and a Hardener or Curing Agent (Part B). When these two components are mixed in a specific ratio, they initiate a chemical reaction called polymerization, resulting in a tough, durable, high-strength, and high-gloss solid.
This unique combination of durability and aesthetic appeal makes epoxy resin the go-to choice for applications ranging from industrial coatings to fine art.
The Secret to a Perfect Cure
Proper mixing is the single most critical step for success. Failure to mix accurately leads to soft, sticky, or uncured resin.
Read the Ratio: ALWAYS follow the ratio specified by the manufacturer (by weight). Do not guess or try to adjust the ratio to change cure time, as this will result in a failed project. We recommend that our resin be used by weight only.
Measure Accurately: Use a digital scale for measuring by weight (most accurate) or clearly marked, separate measuring cups for measuring by volume. Pour Part B (Hardener) first, then Part A (Resin).
Mix Slowly and Thoroughly: Using a clean stir stick (wood or silicone), mix the components slowly for at least 3-5 minutes. Vigorous mixing introduces too many bubbles.
Scrape the Sides and Bottom: Ensure you consistently scrape the sides, corners, and bottom of the mixing cup, folding the material into the center. Unmixed material sticking to the sides will result in sticky spots on your finished piece.
(Working Time)
Pot life (or working time) is the period immediately after mixing Part A and Part B during which the epoxy mixture remains liquid and can be worked with, poured, or spread.
Understanding Exotherm: When resin and hardener combine, they create an exothermic (heat-producing) reaction. The heat accelerates the cure.
The Mass Effect: The more mixed resin you have in a confined space (like your mixing cup), the faster the heat builds up, and the shorter the pot life becomes. This can lead to a phenomenon known as “flash curing,” where the resin heats up and hardens almost instantly, potentially cracking the cup.
Controlling Pot Life:
To Extend: Mix smaller batches, use a hardener with a slower cure time, or immediately pour the mixed resin into a wider, flatter container (like a roller pan) to allow the heat to dissipate.
To Shorten: Use a hardener with a faster cure time, or ensure your workspace temperature is slightly warmer.
Ventilation: Always work in a well-ventilated area, or wear an appropriate respirator when working with large volumes.
PPE: Wear nitrile gloves (epoxy can penetrate latex) and safety goggles to protect your skin and eyes.
Check the Temperature: Most resins require a room temperature. If it’s too cold, the resin will be thick and cure slowly or stay soft. If it’s too hot, it will cure too fast.
Level Surface: Ensure your workbench is perfectly level, as epoxy will self-level, and an unlevel surface will cause the resin to run to one side.
Surface Prep: For coatings (wood, countertops), ensure the surface is clean, dry, and sanded (abraded) to help the epoxy adhere properly.
Bubble Removal: After pouring, wait a few minutes, then use a heat gun or small butane torch held several inches above the surface. Quickly sweep the heat across the surface to pop bubbles. Do not hold the heat in one spot.
Curing: The resin will typically be tack-free and ready to demold in 12 to 24 hours (initial cure). It will reach its full, maximum hardness (final cure) in 3 to 7 days.
